摘要：The craft of auxiliary dobby shaft is one of methods used in the traditional figured woven textiles and especially brocade in *** on the principle of auxiliary dobby shaft,a new method of weave design was *** relevant arrangement of warp and weave design were *** is shown that this method can be applied on one electronic jacquard loom with single warp beam for new product development and *** this effect will open up a new way to reproduce traditional fabrics in order to protect and develop Chinese traditional culture.

摘要：In the past five years, trendy information spread via imported renowned fashion magazines appeared unable to satisfy the industrial needs. Trend books from Milan and Paris have been introduced to big cities in China through official Chinese national agencies, and have gradually drawn more attention within the Chinese fashion industry. Chinese fashion businesses and their designers have difficulties in using the trend book. The main reason is that they don’t understand the whole structure re of the book, the true meaning of the instruction and the way to use the book. Most companies are not using the book in the correct way. However, if no one realizes this is not the right key to the real fashion design world, an incorrect design logic and abnormal production chain will appear in China which will directly produce an unhealthy impact to the country. It’s only possible to catch up and grasp the real European trend with Europe at the same time when the trend books are used correctly.

摘要：Due to different cultural and historical background, the technology in Western and Eastern pattern design is inherently different. Along with the development of technology, garment pattern design technique is making progress towards high effectiveness and accuracy. Many researchers proposed different alternative methodologies to improve the current pattern making processes. This article examines the development of Western and Eastern garment pattern design technique. The main objective of this article is to provide a thorough review and hence a better understanding to those researchers who made contribution on developing pattern design technique and continue their work in the future.

摘要：As for the theory and method in garment structural design according to human figures,a principle for garment design,***-fitting without added allowance,and a combination of draping and planar design (DPD hereunder) for young ladies has been put forward,and,also,a DPD garment prototype for them has been *** the applied formulae for extensively-practicing operation have been set up,which proves to be,with actual samples,a systematic and practical garment structural designing theory and approach.